Friday, 19 August 2011

Coco Chanel



"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening."
Coco Chanel 

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (1883-1971) is another significant designer of the 20th century. Gabrielle's early life was far from easy but that did not drown her will and ambition for creativity. She was a fighter with patience and a belief with herself and her capabilities. Once successful it wasn't long before the World War II started and Chanel had to shut down her business. During the war she greatly profited from her famous perfume 'Chanel No5' and was able to comfortably live for the following six years. Coco lived a dynamic life, her rough upbringing also gave her an appetite for a wealthy lifestyle. As the decades passed her designs and style flourished. She was respected and embraced in all societies. Chanel was also known to always go in the opposite direction to what was currently in trend. When heavy embroidery, prints and bright colours were key features she introduced the 'Little Black dress'. Originally created in the 1920's Chanel again in the fifties brought it back to life by applying a variety of designs  varying in shape, length and use of fabric. She promoted simplicity and always had an elegance about her that is pronounced in her work. 











Jacques Fath


Jacques Fath

Jacques Fath (1912-1954) had a short but blossoming career in the fashion industry. Faths exaggerated frocks also dominated postwar haute couture. Jacques was a self taught designer which had built his knowledge and skills through fashion books and exhibitions. He was born with a talent and had a sharp eye in his field. Like other designers Faths career was too interrupted by the outbreak of World War II and after a short imprisonment Fath was back doing what he does best. Faths designs spoke glamour , he dared to experiment with his colour palette and used asymmetrical drapery along with diagonal lines to achieve a different body of movement in his work. His sexy and wearable glamour appealed to many audiences which lead him to create his own low cost American line along side his couture collections. 













Hubert De Givenchy


"The dress must follow the body of a woman, not the body following the shape of the dress"
Hurbert De Givenchy

Hubert De Givenchy was born on the 21st of february 1927 in Beauvais, Oise. Givenchy Started his career at a very young age and had a desire to "work somewhere in fashion design". Hubert worked for many designers such as Lucien Lelong and Robert Piguet. As a young boy he admired the works of Elsa  Schiaparelli and Madame Tres. It was in 1952 that Hubert had founded 'the house of Givenchy'. Throughout the fifties he was known to design personally for the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy, he was also identified as one of the youngest and most progressive designers at that time. Givenchy also applied Haute Couture to his work and by the mid fifties was one of the most popular fashion designers at the scene. His Clients remained satisfied and loyal, and Hubert seemed to never fail in impressing his audience with his detailed and inventive designs. In 1955 he also introduced his own 'separates' collection which consisted of interchangeable pieces that could mix and match along with the orlon-fabric to Haute Couture. Givenchy designs were always sleek and elegant, filled with variety in shape and volume, he too remains a very favoured fashion icon. 








The fabulous Fifties...

The fifties were refreshing, people developed a mutual respect boundary and got on with everyday living. Out of the depression and done with the war it was a decade that allowed people to make a radical change in their lifestyle. Of course political disputes continued to circulate the globe and clashes between Communism and Capitalism dominated the decade but there was still a huge step of improvement that had been built between societies. Family's got back on their feet and there was a vision of possibilities that were beginning to present themselves.    



The Fifties were glamourous and Hollywood was filled with movie stars. Marilyn Monroe seduced her audience with her angel like beauty and Sofia Loren's fierce features swayed the crowds. It was all about beauty and flaunting what you had. In previous decades woman appeared insignificant and withdrawn, the fifties brought a new light to feminism and the limelight offered them the freedom of expression.



The sounds of Elvis, Ricky Nelson and Chuck Berry complimented this new style of living, it was about laughter and entertainment. People were finally having fun, the Gents kept it smart and the Ladies were charismatic and enchanting. The 'New look' was adopted and Fashion was once again to dominate a prestigious and seductive culture. 




Claire McCardell


"Clothes may make the woman, but the woman can also make the clothes"
Claire MacCardell

Claire MacCardell (1905-1958) despite living a short life was a creator of what is now referred to as the  'American look'. In comparison to fashion designers at that time claire had a different perspective to what she wanted to do and she approached her audience with functional and affordable clothing. Claire attended the New York School of fine and applied art to pursue her interest in fashion. Claire rejected and dismissed any influences of french couture in her work, instead she elected techniques such as the bias cut that she had observed whilst studying in Paris and visiting their Haute Couture houses. Working on the bias simplified and neatened lines in her designs. Despite clashing from the couture impact her creations as well as sports wear remained stylish. As America was recovering from the Great Depression her concept of mass production at low cost price was no doubt a effective motive. Her designs varied from popover dresses to diaper bathing suits. She began to use trouser pockets and pleats on womenswear and ballet slippers as everyday footwear. Her use of fabrics was a mix of natural fibers such as cotton, twill, gingham, denim and jersey. MacCardell created a new wave and method that was practical, adaptable and modest, she initiated a new division in fashion.